Know&Go Guide: Boston, Massachusetts, USA
Boston is a city bursting with history.
Many of the crucial events of the American Revolution, the Boston Massacre, the Boston Tea Party, Paul Revere's "midnight ride," the battles of Lexington and Concord and Bunker Hill, the Siege of Boston and many others occurred in or near Boston. After the Revolution, Boston's long seafaring tradition helped make it one of the world's wealthiest international ports with rum, fish, salt and tobacco particularly important.
However, Boston is more than its history and there are many reasons to visit... it just depends on what interests you.
First and foremost, Boston is a walking city so bring comfortable shoes, as this the best way to get to know it. Take a stroll to through Boston Common – the oldest public park in the country – which, with its neighbour Boston Public Garden, forms the start of the the Emerald Necklace: referring to a birds-eye view of the many connected parks that wind through many of Boston's neighbourhoods. These two are separated by charming Charles Street which also bisects the luxe Beacon Hill district. You could easily spend a day in this area alone.
The beautiful and historic Back Bay neighbourhood is famous for it’s large, Victorian brownstone houses and “considered one of the best-preserved examples of 19th-century urban design in the United States.” While here you can stroll along the Charles River Esplanade, another must-do if you have the time (note: you’ll visit it on the bike tour). Watch rowers from Harvard University - located across the river in Cambridge - work out their study kinks as you mingle (carefully) with flocks of geese.
You can also gather the makings of a picnic from the Copley Square Farmers Market (Tuesdays & Fridays 11am-6pm) and enjoy it on the green in front of Trinity Church, which is worth a look, then visit the Boston Public Library, with its Renaissance inspired courtyard, across the road.
“Just walking along these fabled cobbled streets will fill you with a sense of history and time passing that no other city in the country can.”
Experience
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If you fly into Boston Logan you can travel into central Boston, South Station particularly, via the Silver Line express bus or SL1 from all terminals for FREE.
It’s a quick trip of 20-30 minutes, depending on traffic, you can then also transfer to the Red Line of the subway at South Station for free to go further afield. The return trip incurs the standard bus fare of $2.
Also, always check with your hotel to see if they have an airport shuttle.
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Isabella Stewart Gardner had a sense of humour admittance to her museum is discounted to those wearing Boston Red Sox gear and and is free to anyone named Isabella.
Downtown
Take the ‘T’
Buy a Charlie Card and use the the nation’s first subway line, running since 1897.
When preparing for your trip to Boston, plan to walk and take public transport, particularly the under/overground train known as the ‘T,’ especially from the airport to save you $$.
You can purchase a free refillable Charlie Card at Boston Logan Airport and fill it with value as needed.
At time of publication, it’s $2.40/one way subway trip. A 7-Day Pass is $22.50 and includes subway, local bus and Silver Line bus routes.
You’ll only need a car if you leave the city. Having said that, you can take efficient Commuter Line to the North of Boston Region.
Faneuil Hall (Marketplace)
In 1742, this hallowed hall was called, “The Cradle of Liberty,” by the nation’s fathers.
Peter Faneuil was one of Boston’s wealthiest merchants – albeit mostly from the slave trade. He built the hall as a gift to the city, to serve as a meeting place and marketplace, and it’s still providing that service to this day.
With over 80 retailers occupying the 200,000+ square feet of commercial space (including Quincy, North & South Markets behind the original hall), I’m not sure what he’d make of it. However, it’s an historic place to wander through and marvel at. Whether you settle for an overpriced meal/souvenir is up to you!
Open daily 10am-7pm, late closing Friday-Saturday 9pm.
After you've seen everything at ground level, this is a great way to end any clear day in Boston to catch a gorgeous sunset with 360 degree views over Greater Boston and beyond.
Located on the 51st floor of the Prudential Tower and you can see for up to 160 km (100 miles) when it’s clear.
Purchase tickets at the kiosk in Prudential Arcade or buy online and save $5. If the budget stretches, you could dine at the restaurant one floor up and get the views included in the price of your meal.
It's included on both the Boston CityPass and Go City.
Open every day 10.00am–10.00pm (last admission at 9.30pm.)
This brutalist concrete building, opened in 1969, hides multitudes of wonder and delight.
It’s home to a rookery of penguins, a frenzy of sharks, schools of fish and the queen of the aquarium, Myrtle the Turtle, a ninety-plus-years-old, 226 kg (500 lb) green sea turtle (above).
She lives in the 757,082 litre (200,000 gallon) Giant Ocean Tank – in residence since June 1970 – and eats huge quantities of squid, lettuce, cabbage and brussels sprouts (now I know where to send my life’s share of the latter!).
Discover the Amazon Rainforest to Washington’s Olympic Coast to the Gulf of Maine and everything in between.
This massive edifice to knowledge is worth a wander inside to see the superb interior and courtyard.
The Urban AdvenTours Boston City View Bicycle Tour
This tour is a great way to get to know Boston on ground level.
Cycle through the city streets from the eerily utopian Christian Science Plaza (above) to the banks of the Charles River and everything in between.
It’s 2.5–3 hours long and covers 16–19km (10–12 miles).
Daily at 10am (& 2pm summer only). Cost: $60/person includes a bike, helmet, water and a friendly, knowledgeable guide.
This is one of those lesser known attractions that shouldn't be.
Created in 1935, it's a three-story, stained-glass globe allows you to walk inside the world. It was built for The Monitor newspaper in response to the globe in the lobby of the New York Daily News. There's an audio/light show but just standing inside it is wonderful, seeing the world as it was in the 1930s.
South End
While a lot of noise is made about the North End – home to the historic Paul Revere House, Old North Church and a strong Italian culture with many of the city’s best restaurants found here – very little is made of the South End district… I think the locals want to keep it to themselves.
South End has more of a hipster/Brooklyn feel, large turn-of-the-century apartment blocks, wide avenues, art galleries and markets, while North End is older with more historic buildings and cobbled, higgledy piggledy streets.
I walked through both this visit, however, it was my first time in South End and I was charmed it. It didn’t hurt that I discovered Blackbird Doughnuts (see the Eat section), and many cute cafés and restaurants.
Just strolling the wide avenues, looking at the shops and parks, picking a café like Southend Buttery (see the Eat section) to sit and while away a sunny day, is a lovely way to spend a couple of hours.
I recommend a day like this when you are travelling to reset yourself and recharge your batteries for more sightseeing.
Fenway
This major museum was established in 1870, with the main Neoclassical building constructed in 1909. Further additions happened up until the West Wing, designed by IM Pei, opened in 1981.
I was lucky to catch a temporary exhibition on John Singer Sargent watercolours. He was the leading portrait artist of his time and I have always admired those ‘Gilded Age’ works. He also painted the frescoes that adorn the rotunda and colonnades inside the museum’s entrance. These and the ones at the Boston Public Library and Harvard’s Widener Library are his only public building works.
It’s a vast space with all the usual suspects found in a world-class art museum. I left via the back entrance to see the installation Night and Day, two massive bronze baby heads, created by Spanish artist Antonio Lopez Garcia. They polarise people and “creepy” or “cute” are the usual responses.
Open daily 10am-5pm, late closing Thursday-Friday 10pm.
This is the eclectic and very personal collection of a remarkable woman – Isabella Stewart Gardner – American art collector, philanthropist and foremost patrons of the arts.
Gardner was the daughter of a wealthy linen-merchant who married into Boston society. After travelling the world with her husband, she furthered her knowledge and indulged her passion for art. Becoming an art collector, patron and philanthropist, she befriended the leading lights of the artistic community and was considered a bit too unconventional for Boston society of the late 19th/early 20th century.
Buying the land in 1898 after her husband's death, she had a Renaissance Venetian palazzo built, filled it with her collection – more than 7500 paintings, including works by Michelangelo, Titian, Rembrandt, Botticelli, Degas and Sargent; sculptures; furniture; textiles; ceramics; rare books; and archival objects from ancient Rome, Medieval Europe, Renaissance Italy, Asia and the Islamic world – and opened it to the public on 1903.
Infamously, it’s more famous for being the victim of an audacious theft, when in 1990 thieves dressed as policeman stole thirteen works, worth upwards of $500 million. It became the “greatest known property theft in history.” It remains unsolved and the works have never resurfaced.
Come see what’s left for yourself, everyday 11am-5pm, Thursdays til 9pm.
Columbia Point
This excellent attraction is slightly outside of the city proper, but it’s worth the trip.
The striking building was designed by I.M.Pei, who was selected by Jackie Kennedy back in 1964, as she spotted his burgeoning talent. At the time of he demurred, saying he as only young and hadn’t done anything monumental. Nevertheless, she never wouldn’t be swayed and commissioned him there and then.
The initial design was to include a “truncated glass pyramid symbolizing President Kennedy’s abrubtly cut-off life," however, issues with the original site led to delays and it was finally completed on its waterfront site in 1979.
Showcasing the Kennedy’s life from start to finish, with Jackie and in office. It’s one of the best presidential libraries and personal museums to which I’ve been.
Open daily 10am–5pm (except New Year’s Day, Thanksgiving and Christmas Day).
Cambridge
These student-led tours are a great way to see this historic campus.
I'm a big fan of walking tours, they're like a reconnaissance mission and should be done early in your trip.
Once you know how to walk through the campus you can confidently stride around Harvard. Nothing worse than getting lost amongst superior teenagers!
This small, bare bones museum is fun for imaginative kids of all sizes.
Most exhibits are past and present student projects, proving that MIT does produce all forms of genius.
Three museums - Fogg, Busch-Reisinger and Arthur M. Sackler - have been brought together under one stunning Renzo Piano Building Workshop designed roof.
It's right next to Harvard campus so you can do them all in one visit.
Consume
The original Palm was established in New York in 1926 and the story goes that it was supposed to be called The Parma.
However, when the owners – Pio Bozzi and John Ganzi fresh off the boat from Italy – applied for their restaurant license, the registrar interpreted the name as The Palm and they ran with it.
By 1931, the Palmʼs reputation as a steakhouse began to take hold, thanks to their willingness to cater to their clientele of local journalists from publications and companies such as the New York Daily Mirror, Hearst Corporation and United Press International. The cartoonists of the publications started drawing things on the walls and the tradition, which continues across the now twenty-five restaurants, was born.
I was treated to a lunch (image above) of superior lobster bisque – ceremoniously poured from a silver jug into my bowl; their signature Chicken Parmigiana; and the most incredible seven-layer chocolate cake… and I don’t even like chocolate. Positively decadent.
Open Tuesday-Friday 11.30am-9pm, Saturday 5-10pm, Sunday-Monday 4-8pm.
The flagship store, located in South End, is a small, beautifully decorated French-style bakery, complete with chandelier. Through the internal glass wall you can watch the bakers making the treats… and treats they are, with inventive flavourings – ten flavour changes each month – both raised (yeast) and cake versions.
The cold-brewed coffee and coconut raised doughnut (above right) was damn near close to nirvana. The dough itself is so tasty that every time I took a bite I thought it couldn’t have been that good, but it was.
Open weekdays 7am-4pm, weekends 8am-4pm.
Opening in 2005, this excellent cafe has turned around the fortunes of the South End with its offering of fresh, simple food all day.
Sitting on the corner of Shawmut Street, this cafe sits beautifully inside its heritage building in a neighbourhood that rivals Beacon Hill for lovely, old buildings, charming boulevards and diverse restaurant offerings.
The outside seating is delightful in the sun and you could easily while away an hour or two here.
Open Sunday-Wednesday 6.30am-9pm, Thursday-Saturday 6.30am-9pm.
This popular Charles Street diner in Beacon Hill serves all day breakfast - one of my favourite three-word expressions. I chose the Breakfast Special: two eggs, cajun home fries, toast and coffee for $8* (+tax & tipping).
The service is friendly & quick and, unless there's a line out the door which is common, you are welcome to linger and enjoy the free coffee refills.
Open daily 8am-9pm.
There are four locations for Al's Cafe and you’ll find them by the huge queues pouring out the doors at lunch time.
In expensive Boston, their famous bag lunch – sub, chips and a bottled drink – comes in two sizes: small (10") $12/large (18”) $14.25 - is very good value.
They pile their sandwiches high and, if it's busy, stand back and watch how it all works, because the service is a well-oiled machine and moves pretty fast. Don't be the cog that jams the machinery!
All locations open weekdays 10am-3pm, except Tech Square 9am-3pm.
Boston's Chinatown is a large one and there is a plethora of places to eat. I was craving some dim sum (or yum cha) and did a quick search on Google Maps. I plumped for this one because it was in an old theatre. I was one of few non-Asian patrons and that's always a good sign.
Some dim sum places don't have the carts (table service only), so check before choosing if that's your preference, but this one does. I had two steamers of hot translucent shrimp dumplings (har gow) and was full. The check was only $9 (inc tax) and, with the tip, I had a good, filling meal for a small price.
Open daily 8.30am-9.30pm, late closing Friday-Saturday 10.30pm.
Rest
On my first visit to Boston I stayed at the here and it was the most fabulous entrée to Boston.
The only hotel with balconies in the city – every room has one – inside it's a stunning property, with a signature lobby scent that drains the days cares from you the moment you step inside and breathe deeply. (They sell candles with their scent so you can take the feeling home.)
The central location in the Theatre District and near Boston Common, means you can walk or take the subway to any attraction or restaurant in Boston. You can even walk to all the locations mentioned from here. I’ve since returned, but it sells out fast!
This sleek and stylish hotel opened in 2016, in the heart of the shopping district, with easy access to the theatre and historic districts.
The rooms are spacious and slick, with nice touches like portable Bose speakers so you can listen to your music while you enjoy the large walk-in shower. I’ve stayed here three times and each was a pleasure.
When I take the train between Manhattan and Maine I’m forced to transfer between South and North Stations. While this transfer is easily achieved by subway or taxi, depending on your luggage, I use this as a great excuse to spend at least one night in Boston. This hotel is perfectly located: just one stop from South Station and only three to North Station on the T. I’ve stayed three times and can’t wait to return.
If downtown Boston’s hotels are a tad out of your price range, then consider this one slightly south of downtown.
It’s a quiet location near the water and a short walk from an actual beach in Boston!
They have a free airport shuttle and it’s a short walk to the JFK/UMass T station to take you to the hustle and bustle.
If you’re feeling energetic, the JFK Presidential Library is just a 20 minute walk away.