Know&Go Guide: Southland, South Island, New Zealand
The Catlins
Described on the region's website thus "You will journey through podocarp forest, past rugged coastlines, hidden lakes and stunning waterfalls. Slope Point, the southernmost point of the south Island, has windswept trees and a magnificent view over the southern ocean."
Located at the very bottom of mainland New Zealand, it is a lightly inhabited area that can make you feel the only person on the planet. Packed with untouched beaches; lakes, rivers and waterfalls; forests and pastureland; wildlife both land and marine; its nature green and blue as far as the eye can see.
Invercargill
Southland's only city is not known for its beauty (it evoked groans from Kiwis when mentioned and I had to take this image from the official website as none I took could convey it). Being the southernmost and westernmost city in New Zealand and one of the southernmost cities in the world, it does feel like the end of the world. The only other countries that appears in this low latitude (46°S) are the very tips of Chile and Argentina. Being constantly battered by very strong southern ocean winds it seems to be cowering in wait for the next onslaught. This impression is reinforced by the fact that all new buildings have a strict 10 metres (32 foot) height limit, with the Grand Hotel (1913) the tallest in town at three stories.
Bluff
Bluff is the southern-most mainland town in New Zealand – with only a few islands between it and Antartica – and is colloquially used to refer to the southern extremity of the country. In the same way that a Briton would use "Land's End to John o'Groats" to denote the diagonal the length of Great Britain, southwest to northeast; Kiwis say “Cape Reinga to The Bluff."
Said to be one of the earliest areas of European settlement, the first ship arrived in 1813 with settlers following in the early 1820s. Bluff Maritime Museum is a good place to discover this early history. It’s the gateway to Stewart Island the country’s third largest island, only 30 km (19 miles) across the Foveaux Strait and reachable by ferry. The Māoris call it Rakiura, meaning ‘the land of glowing skies’ referring to the Aurora Australis which often appears here.
Fiordland
Taking the entire south-western corner of the South Island and making up the western-most third of Southland, this large and untouched region, carved by glaciers over 100,000 years, has a very wet climate - averaging 200 rainy days and rainfall from 1200mm (4ft)-8000mm (26ft) annually.
Famous for Milford Sound, the Milford Track and Doubtful Sound, this is an adventurers paradise.
Dominated by the sharp sided snow-capped Southern Alps, with deep lakes and ocean-flooded, steep western valleys. With no significant permanent population then or now - even the Maori only came for hunting, fishing and to collect the precious stone pounamu (New Zealand jade) - you can have the place to yourself if hiking and camping are your things.
Experience
As museums go this is a nice one, with varied exhibits, including a permanent one on local hero, Burt Munro, who restored a 1920 Indian motorcycle and went onto set numerous world speed records. Anthony Hopkins portrayed his life in the movie, The World's Fastest Indian.
However, the overwhelming drawcard is the ancient, pre-historic and pre-dinosaur tuatara. This reptile, which flourished around 200 million years ago and is endemic to New Zealand, is now only found in the wild on the Cook Strait islands and off the North Island's east coast. The name tuatara means "peaks on the back" in Māori.
The museum's world-renowned, highly successful breeding program currently boasts over 80 animals and is a key contributor to the survival of New Zealand's unique 'living fossil.' I was the lucky recipient of a special behind the scenes tour and was even allowed to hold one. Heavy and cold they are fearsome creatures and watching them feed was like Jurassic Park in miniature. The alpha male and true star of the show is Henry (bottom left), reported to be nearly 120 years old.
Fiordland Cruise, Hike, Fly Fish or Cycle
A cruise on one of the Sounds – Milford or Doubtful – are a highlight of visiting this region. I chose Doubtful Sound (10 times larger and 3 times longer) and even though it rained most of the time (note the rainbow), it was pretty spectacular.
If you are after a more active experience then you can choose from three ‘great walks’ in the World Heritage Site, Fiordland National Park: Milford, Kepler and Routeburn Tracks. The Milford Track is arguably New Zealand’s most famous walk at 53 kilometres it winds through mountains, lakes and valleys and includes Sutherland Falls, the tallest waterfall in New Zealand.
Southland is also famous for its fly fishing, once more reminding visitors or the Scottish Highlands. Fly-Fishing Season is October 1 to May 31, with the best months October to March.
Mountain biking, long distance cycling and all kinds of two-wheeled activities abound in this region.
The Bluff signpost at Stirling Point
This is a tourist pilgrimage site. They've been coming here for decades to have their picture taken in front of the signpost at the end of the world. It shows distances to all over the world, like the one on M*A*S*H.
Most people get the picture and leave, spending a total of about ten minutes in Bluff, but I suggest you also head up to the Bluff Lookout, a short drive from away and up, which offers fabulous 360º views over southern New Zealand. After that pop into one of the pubs, buy a local sailor a beer and learn what it's like to live at the end of the world.
Rest
Consume
This well-deserved award-winning cafe is a good reason to visit Invercargill. Ranked #1 on TripAdvisor, this beautifully decorated establishment creates fabulous food, served in a pleasing ambience.
Safari Lodge is a five-star bed & breakfast within a meticulously restored, elegant Victorian/Edwardian mansion. The owners, Trish and Ray, are lovely, welcoming hosts who have a passion for Africa where they lived for many years. The rooms all carry an African animal theme, but fear not, it's subtle and refined.
My room - Elephant - boasted a four-poster bed, a lovely rain-shower and work desk. All of which saw activity from me. There is a conservatory with sauna and jacuzzi if you have the time, which I did not.
(Read TPB’s TripAdvisor review)